Baguettes

Many people shy away from breadmaking, but when I started making my own bread this summer, I found that it really doesn't take much more than a little patience and some elbow grease. If you're interesting in getting into breadmaking, I can't recommend highly enough Rose Beranbaum's The Bread Bible. (And buy it online, don't be a chump like me and pay full cover price.) Not only does the book have great recipes, but it also explains the purpose of various steps and the importance of doing them just so. The recipe posted here is essentially the original, except that I've adjusted the yeast amounts for active dry yeast instead of instant yeast; I find active dry is easier to find and cheaper. I also use bread flour instead of unbleached all-purpose flour, since I find this makes for a bit of a chewier texture. If you prefer a lighter loaf, use AP flour (but not the regular bleached kind).

The first step in making baguettes is to make two different starters, or preferments. The purpose of these is to let the yeast and flour ferment a bit before mixing the actual dough. This way the final loaves have much more flavor. I typically allow about 48 hours for making baguettes, so if I want fresh bread for dinner on Saturday I'll make the starters Thursday evening. It's not necessary, but it sure makes for a better tasting loaf.

One of these starters is called the "scrap dough" or pâte fermentée, which traditionally was a bit leftover from the last batch of bread you made. Since the amount of yeast used in these two starters is very slight, start by measuring out 1/4 t. of active dry yeast and mixing it with 1/4 c. of warm water. This is going to be the "yeast water" that's used for both starters. The water should be warm but not too hot. My general rule is that if it's comfortable for me, it'll be comfortable for the yeast. Active dry yeast needs to be awakened a bit, so let the yeast water sit for about 5 minutes before using it. I usually just mix it together in my measuring cup with a small whisk.

In a small bowl, stir together 1/4 c. plus 2 1/2 T. bread flour and 1/4 t. salt. Add 2 T. plus 2 t. of the yeast water. Stir until mixed with a wooden spoon. It'll be a stiff dough, so I usually just use my hands towards the end.


Resist the temptation to add more water. If the dough is absolutely too dry, wet your hands and knead it in the bowl a bit. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 3 hours, then refrigerate overnight.

For the other starter, or poolish, mix 1/2 c. plus 1/2 T. bread flour, 1/2 T. of the yeast water, and 1/4 c. plus 1 1/2 T. of warm water. Stir until incorporated. This dough will be much wetter, about the consistency of a batter.


Cover and let ferment at room temperature overnight (the book recommends 11 1/2 to 16 hours, but up to 20 won't hurt). In the morning the poolish should be risen slightly and covered with bubbles.


Now it's time to make the dough.

Stir 1/4 t. yeast in a large mixing bowl with 1 1/2 T. warm water. Add another 1 1/2 T. of warm water to the poolish to loosen it. Once the yeast is dissolved, add 1 c. plus 3 T. bread flour. Pour in the poolish. Stir together, as before kneading together by hand if the dough is too stiff for stirring. Cover and let rest 20 minutes.

Knead for 7 minutes. My experience is that at this point the dough is firm enough that you don't need to add any flour, but if your dough is too sticky to work, add some more flour by coating your hands and kneading surface and working it in.


Put the dough in an oiled bowl or other rising container. For the first hour, give the dough a business letter turn every 20 minutes (i.e., a total of 3 turns). A business letter turn involves taking the dough out, stretching it (not pressing it!) into about an 8x5 rectangle, and folding it in thirds like a business letter. (This is the kind of stuff that's a lot easier if you have the book, since it's full of illustrations. Buy it!) This is my dough after the first turn.


Once you've finished the 3 turns, let the dough sit undisturbed another 1-2 hours, for 2-3 hours total rising time.

Once the dough has risen for 2-3 hours, take it out and cut it in half. Take each piece and stretch into a rectangle, then start at the top and roll the dough into a stubby log.


Mine are actually pretty long; yours can be much stubbier. Let rest 30 minutes. They'll probably puff up just a little.




Take your stubby logs and stretch them back into rectangles, then do the same thing again (this process makes the dough more elastic). The end result will look about the same as it did the first time.


Let rest 30-45 minutes.

For the final shaping, gently stretch the baguettes to whatever length you want.

Baguette pans are great for this, but as you can see, a regular baking sheet works just fine. Cover and refrigerate overnight (or at least 5 hours).

Take the baguettes out of the fridge at least 1 1/2 hours before baking. Preheat the oven to 450 one hour before baking. In the oven, preheat a baking sheet (with rim) at the lowest level, and put your other rack just above it. When your baguettes are ready to go in, dump 1/2 cup of ice (4-5 large ice cubes) in the rimmed baking sheet and slide in the baguettes. The ice will create steam, which humidifies the oven and keeps the crust from setting before the dough has risen fully. Bake for 30 minutes. I always turn things around in my oven halfway through to ensure even baking. When they're done, cool them on wire racks if you have them.